Salzburg in December: What to Do and Where to Stay

I’ve visited Salzburg at a few different times of year, but December in Salzburg is certainly special. With a plethora of busy Christmas markets, festive lights filling the historic streets, and special seasonal things to do and see, December is a wonderful time to visit Salzburg.

From what to do to where to stay to what to pack and more, here’s what to know about visiting Salzburg in December.

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Things to Do in Salzburg in December

Here are some of the best things to do and see while visiting Salzburg in December.

Christmas Markets

No surprise here: in December, it’s impossible to visit Salzburg without stumbling across a Christmas market or two.

If you haven’t experienced European Christmas markets before, you’re in for a treat. They’re truly delightful, with great food, fun shopping, and delicious mulled wine.

Here’s a quick rundown of the markets I visited (or wanted to visit!) in Salzburg and whether I recommend that you visit them too:

Salzburger Christkindlmarkt. This is the main Christmas market in Salzburg, and trust me: you won’t miss it. It’s quite large, filling two adjacent squares (Residenzplatz and Domplatz) and then some. It’s also, in my experience, extremely crowded, so brace yourself for long lines and limited space. Still, of course it’s worth seeing!

Weihnachtsmarkt am Mirabellplatz. A considerably smaller market, the Mirabellplatz Christmas market occupies a narrow space outside of Mirabell Palace. The setting isn’t as beautiful as the main market, but it’s far less crowded, making it a nice spot to shop for gifts or stand around with food.

Hellbrunn Adventzauber. Just a short bus ride from Salzburg is Hellbrunn Palace, home of two world-famous attractions: trick water fountains and the Sound of Music gazebo. And in December, Hellbrunn also hosts a Christmas market! Unfortunately, when I visited Hellbrunn on a morning in December (on the original Sound of Music tour), the market wasn’t yet open for the day, but it looked like a lovely setting!

Hohensalzburg Fortress Advent Market. This market is set on the fortress that stands tall above Salzburg. I tried to visit it…but unfortunately, I discovered the hard way that it’s only open on the weekends. My guess, though, is that it’s far less crowded than the main market in the city below, given that you have to make the effort of getting up to the fortress to see it.

Krampuslauf

One of the most unique experiences you can have while visiting Salzburg in December is witnessing the city’s Krampuslauf (or Krampus Run, or Krampus Parade).

If you’re unfamiliar with the concept, a Krampuslauf is a large parade of (usually) young men dressed up as Krampus — a figure from Alpine folklore who looks sort of like a goat/demon and visits children with St. Nick on December 5 (the night before the Feast of St. Nicholas). While St. Nick gives gifts to the good kids, Krampus punishes the bad ones by striking them with wooden rods or branches.

In a Krampuslauf, costumed Krampuses (Krampi? Kramps? Krampusi?), usually wearing incredibly elaborate masks and enormous horns, prowl through the parade route, looking for people to “punish” with the branches or whips they carry. Many wear noisy Alpine bells, and the parade may include loud music, scary red lighting, and smoke effects. Other sinister creatures from folklore might make appearances as well. It’s truly a sight to see (and hear)!

Salzburg’s Krampuslauf typically takes place on December 5. If you happen to be visiting Salzburg over that date, don’t miss it!

During my own visit to Salzburg in December, I was elsewhere on December 5, and experienced a Krampuslauf in Bad Goisern instead. However, when I arrived in Salzburg a few days later, there were still some Krampuses (and St. Nicks!) lingering around town!

Sound of Music Tour

If you’re a fan of The Sound of Music, I’m sure you already know that much of the movie was filmed in Salzburg, where the real von Trapp family lived before fleeing the Nazi occupation of Austria.

You’ll see plenty of filming locations as you walk around Salzburg (in particular, many of the spots that appear in “Do Re Mi” and “I Have Confidence”), but some scenes (like the lake scenes, the wedding scene, and more) were filmed in places that are more difficult to access.

For these scenes, the easiest way to visit the filming location is to take the famous Sound of Music tour. This half-day bus tour will take you to see the lake, the gazebo, the wedding cathedral, and more.

Learn all about the Sound of Music tour and how to book it in this post:

Ice Skating

For an activity you couldn’t do in Salzburg at any other time of year, consider ice skating!

In the winter, the city sets up an ice skating rink on Mozartplatz, where you can skate with the beautiful buildings of Salzburg surrounding you. During my visit, there was also a nice little food and drink stand beside the rink — thankfully, with plenty of space heaters!

Hohensalzburg Fortress

One of my favorite things to do in Salzburg in December — or any time of year! — is to visit Hohensalzburg Fortress, which presides over the city.

If you’re up for it, you can walk up to Hohensalzburg Fortress — or skip the climb and ride the funicular instead.

At the top, you’ll need to buy a ticket to enter the fortress, but I think it’s well worth the cost. In addition to touring the site and learning about the history of the fortress, you’ll get access to a viewing platform with spectacular, 360-degree views of Salzburg and its surroundings.

By the way, if you’re in search of more great views of Salzburg, don’t miss the Museum der Moderne, which has a viewing platform with my favorite views of Salzburg (see the photo at the beginning of this section!), and the hillside views in front of the monastery, which is across the river from the fortress.

Mirabell Palace & Gardens

Mirabell Palace, which sits just outside the old town of Salzburg, is best known for its spectacular gardens, which feature prominently in The Sound of Music‘s “Do Re Mi.”

Unfortunately, in the winter, there’s not much to see in the way of plant life. But you can still check out the gardens and admire their wonderful view of the city, or visit limited portions of Mirabell Palace (most areas of the building are restricted to the public).

I also said this above, but don’t miss the charming little Christmas market outside the palace!

Churches

Get out of the cold by popping into some of Salzburg’s uniquely beautiful churches.

My favorite, personally, is Franziskanerkirche (the Franciscan church), which has these amazing pillars at the front of the church. The first time I saw it, I just stood there, mouth agape, looking up the way the pillars converge.

The other absolute must-see church in Salzburg is Dom zu Salzburg, or the Salzburg Cathedral — a massive, beautifully ornate building. It’s impossible to miss, and that’s especially true in December, when the cathedral is more or less surrounded by Christmas markets.

Petersfriedhof

Not every city has a must-see cemetery, but Salzburg certainly does in Petersfriedhof — the graveyard sitting outside St. Peter’s Church.

If you’ve seen The Sound of Music, you have a sense of Petersfriedhof already: it inspired the set for the cemetery scene near the end of the movie (though that scene was filmed in a Hollywood studio, not in Salzburg!). It’s famous for its beauty, with unique catacombs carved into the mountainside beside the cemetery and centuries-old headstones ornately decorated.

Day trips

If you’re not terribly strapped for time, and want to see more of Austria and beyond, Salzburg is wonderfully located within a short distance of several other towns and cities that are absolutely worth a day trip. Here are some of my recommendations:

Innsbruck

I’ve taken a day trip to Innsbruck twice. Truth be told, the first time I visited the city, I wasn’t overly impressed — but on my second visit, in December, I was pleasantly surprised. Maybe it was the Christmas magic doing its thing, but I found myself totally charmed by the beautiful setting and architecture this time around, even despite some crappy weather.

My favorite thing to do in Innsbruck, even in December, is to visit the Hofkirche (Court Church), which is less of a church than a memorial to Maximilian I, whose cenotaph sits prominently inside the space. (He’s not actually buried there, though!)

Surrounding the massive cenotaph are 28 bronze statutes, which are easily the most memorable part of the building, if you ask me. I mean, just look at them:

Hallstatt

One of my favorite places in Austria at any time — but perhaps especially in December — is Hallstatt, the tiny lakeside town that’s become world-famous simply for being very, very, very pretty.

I do recommend staying overnight in Hallstatt if possible — it’s so lovely to be there in the evenings and early mornings, when the town is quiet — but I can’t deny that it’s a pretty perfect day trip from Salzburg.

And if your schedule happens to align so that you can visit Hallstatt on December 8 — the one day a year when Hallstatt holds a Christmas market! — even better.

Munich

Truth be told, I’ve never fallen in love with Munich, and I found it particularly challenging in December, when it was absolutely packed with visitors. But it’s certainly worth seeing at least once, and visiting as a day trip from Salzburg might be the perfect way to get a taste of Munich without committing yourself to the crowds for longer.

If you visit Munich in December, don’t miss going up the Rathausturm for fantastic views over the city’s main Christmas market. However, skip the tower at St. Peter’s Church, which was — no exaggeration — the worst tower experience of my life (and I have climbed many).

I was also a really big fan of the medieval Christmas market and Pink Christmas (Munich’s LGBT Christmas market).

Where to Stay in Salzburg

When I visited Salzburg in December, I stayed at Gästehaus im Priesterseminar Salzburg. Rooms here are super simple but clean and quite affordable, and it’s wonderfully located just across the river from the heart of Salzburg’s old town. I would definitely consider staying here again on future visits to Salzburg!

For other good lodging options in Salzburg, check out the following suggestions:

Winter Weather in Salzburg

Expect December temperatures in Salzburg to generally range between 20 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit (about -6 to 7 degrees Celsius). It could, of course, be warmer or even colder during your own visit — check the forecast before you leave!

As for snow — it’s certainly possible, but not guaranteed. I didn’t see any snow during my own time in Salzburg in December, although I did get snow in other places in Austria around the same time.

What to Pack for Visiting Salzburg in December

Here are some things I strongly recommend that you pack for visiting Salzburg in December:

Boots. While traveling in Europe, I typically like to pack comfy sneakers for long days of walking around, but they won’t cut it if it snows while you’re visiting Salzburg. Instead (or at least in addition to), bring a pair of boots. They don’t necessarily have to be super intense — I spent a month visiting Christmas markets in Europe (including in Salzburg) in the Nisolo Go-to City Hiker Boots, which are warm enough and comfy but also style-forward. Sadly, those are now discontinued, but you can find a similar style here.

Merino wool socks. Inside those boots should be some warm, comfy socks. I recommend merino wool, which retains heat but not smelliness.

Warm coat, scarf, hat, and gloves. Perhaps this goes without saying, but you should bring a warm winter coat, a cozy scarf, a hat, and some gloves. Trust me, you’ll want them all!

Thermals. You won’t regret bringing thermal layers to wear under your sweaters and pants. Great options include thermal tops and leggings, which you can find in sets like this.

Final Thoughts

December is a delightful time to visit Salzburg. In fact, between the cozy Christmas markets and festive lighting, the beautiful churches and towering fortress, and the possibility of snow, I think it’s one of the best times to experience the city. I hope this post helps you plan the perfect trip to Salzburg in December!

Still have questions about visiting Salzburg in December? Leave a comment below or shoot me a message — I’d love to help.

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